Springtime is Turf Time

If you're like most lawn lovers, by now you are gunning your 4-cycle engines and rarin' to get things growing! Before you do anything, though, make sure the ground has dried enough so you don't compact the soil while working on the lawn. If it feels pretty firm under foot, then it's time to get greening!

Rake.

A little clean-up is a good way to get your spring lawn off to a fresh start. Use a rake with gentle bamboo or flexible metal tines to avoid digging up tender spring grass shoots. Removing winter debris like sticks and leaves will keep your lawn mower blade sharper longer and allow sunlight to penetrate the soil, warming it up for faster root growth.

Aerating.

Spring core aerating can bring dormant weed seeds to the surface where they'll germinate, so autumn is generally the preferred time for this project. If you have a serious compaction problem, though, go ahead and rent a gas-powered core aerator and do the deed. We'll take care of the weeds later.

Seed.

Again, fall is the best time to renew an entire lawn, but spring rains and cool weather will provide good conditions to fix up some bare spots and thin areas.

Before you seed, though, you need to make an important decision. If you had a crabgrass problem in the past and plan on using a pre-emergent crabgrass preventer, any seed you put down will not germinate. So you need to decide: do I need new grass more, or do I need to control grabgrass more? If you decide to seed, you can always control the crabgrass when it pops up with an herbicide.

Now, back to seeding. Loosen the soil first with a rake or dethatching machine. Choose a seed that is right for your climate, sun/shade conditions and traffic tolerance. If you are unsure, experts recommend planting a mixture of seed varieties. The type best suited for the conditions in your yard will thrive and gradually dominate the others. A mixture will also prevent a mono-cultural disaster should your lawn fall prey to a variety-specific pest or disease.

Weed Control.

If you have had a problem with grassy weeds in the past, stopping them before they start growing is easier than dealing with them above ground. Apply Crabgrass Preventer early, before soil temperatures warm up and seeds start germinating. (See comment above about seeding with pre-emergents.) Broadleaf weeds and other weeds that are already in the lawn can be dealt with by removing them by hand (the most effective time to do this is when they are flowering and before they go to seed), or use Weed & Feed, which control broadleaf weeds while feeding your lawn.

Watering.

Newly seeded areas need to be watered daily-sometimes several times-to keep the soil/seed contact moist. Even one day of drying out can mean curtains for young grass seedlings. Also, pre-emergent crabgrass preventers need to be watered in to be effective. Once lawn growth has become established, reduce the frequency of watering, and increase the duration, watering deeply to encourage healthy root growth and discourage weeds.

Fertilizing.

For established lawns, apply Lawn Fertilizer or Weed & Feed Fertilizer according to instructions on the package. And for mid-season fast green up, feed your lawn every time you water with a water-soluble nitrogen-rich plant food to use with your hose-end feeder. Follow up in late spring or early summer with another application of Lawn Fertilizer or Weed & Feed.

Mowing.

Start your spring with a sharp mower blade and your grass will thank you. Dull blades knock down the grass and tear, rather than cut, tender shoots, causing excessive tip browning and increased disease potential.

Don't give your grass a buzz job. Taller grass can better survive drought and heat, because it shades the roots, and it also helps discourage weed seed germination. Experts recommend a setting of 2-1/2" to 3" for most turf types. Mow frequently in the fast-growing spring season, as often as is necessary to keep from removing more than 1/3 of the blade.