If you lawn has suffered from a summer of drought, kids' play, grub damage or other onslaughts, fall is the best time to revive it. Even if your turf made it through the summer relatively unscathed, it will still benefit from some TLC before facing the harsh winds of winter. Here are some tips to get your lawn ready for a fresh start next spring.

Test It

Grass will grow in almost any kind of soil in the early spring; but to stay healthy all summer long, it has certain preferences for soil conditions. If your lawn really seemed to struggle for no apparent reason or seemed unusually bothered by insects, disease or weed invasions, the problem may not be the grass -- it might be the soil. So before you spend a lot of money on fertilizers, soil amendments and grass seed, spend a little on having your soil tested. You can usually have this done at a local nursery, garden center, or the county extension office, or visit www.earthtest.com for mail-order testing . The test will describe the current condition of the soil-pH level, percentage of organic material present, aeration and drainage capacity and other characteristics. It may also tell the levels of certain nutrients, and it might even include recommendations for improvements. This information will help you target your efforts, spend your money more efficiently, and give your lawn restoration a healthy start.

Give It Air

Lawns that regularly host the neighborhood soccer games or otherwise attract a lot of traffic will generally suffer from soil compaction. An ideal soil will have as much as 50% pore space between soil particles. If the soil is badly compacted, grass roots can't receive the oxygen they need, they have a harder time spreading through the soil, and water run-off is increased. The best way to loosen the soil is with an aerating machine. The aerator is a gas-powered machine with hollow tubes that pull soil plugs from the ground. You can pay a lawn service to do this, or rent a machine from the neighborhood tool rental shop and do it yourself. When your aerating, it's also a good time to amend heavy clay soils with soil conditioner. Many people use gypsum for this purpose, but gypsum responds chemically to change soil structure, and only works in certain kinds of soils. Plus, it is only a temporary solution requiring reapplication every one or two years. Sand is not recommended for use in amending compacted clay soils. While it can be effective in small gardens, it is difficult to add sand in large enough quantities to effectively aerate these soils in an entire lawn. In fact, small amounts of sand mixed with clay can lead to even harder, adobe-like soil structure.

Lime-Aid

Most grasses grow best in a soil that is nearly neutral in pH. Nutrients, like the fertilizer you will be putting down, are most readily available to plant roots when the soil is neither too acidic or too alkaline. In fact, phosphorus, an essential nutrient for strong root development and disease resistance, is most efficiently absorbed within a very narrow 6.5-7.3 pH range. If your soil test showed a pH level lower than 6.5, the grass won't be getting all the nutrients it needs, even if the soil has plenty of nutrients available. Adding lime will help restore a proper pH level.

If the soil is particularly low, don't double or triple the application rate now. Instead, apply the recommended amount now, then add lime again in the spring, and, if still needed, again next fall. Be sure to test your soil before each application. Remember, extreme alkalinity can be just as damaging as high acidity.

Sow Seeds

Whether you are filling in a few bare spots, overseeding a thin lawn or reseeding a new lawn, fall is the perfect time to get young grass growing. Choose a seed that is appropriate for you geographical region and for the conditions of your particular yard. Some grass varieties prefer full sun, others will do well in shade. Some can't stand the heat while others thrive in it. There are even certain varieties that stand up better to those neighborhood soccer games. If you're not sure what category your yard fits, buy a mixture. The varieties that naturally like the conditions will eventually dominate those that don't. Frequently, particularly on slopes, it is a good idea to put a thin layer of straw or mesh netting over the seed to help keep it in place and keep it moist until the young grass plants become established. The down side to straw is it decomposes very slowly and is difficult to rake up without tearing tender grass plants out of the ground. An alternative-particularly if your soil test showed low levels of organic material-is to "top dress" the lawn with a thin layer of compost, aged manure, or other material rich in organic matter. This material will act as mulch for the seeds, and eventually work itself into the soil, enhancing the soil's nutritional value, drainage and aeration.

Water newly seeded areas frequently (2-3 times a day) and lightly, keeping the soil moist but not flooded until new grass begins to appear (7-14 days). Gradually reduced watering frequency and increase duration until plants are well established.

Fertilize

Whether you are filling in a few bare spots, overseeding a thin lawn or reseeding a new lawn, fall is the perfect time to get young grass growing. Choose a seed that is appropriate for you geographical region and for the conditions of your particular yard. Some grass varieties prefer full sun, others will do well in shade. Some can't stand the heat while others thrive in it. There are even certain varieties that stand up better to those neighborhood soccer games. If you're not sure what category your yard fits, buy a mixture. The varieties that naturally like the conditions will eventually dominate those that don't. After seeding, cover with mulching granules. They will keep soil and seed moist, improving germination, and will also hold seed in place, particularly on slopes. If your soil test showed low levels of organic material, top dress the lawn with a thin layer of organicmaterial like compost, aged manure or other material rich in organic matter. Water newly seeded areas frequently (2-3 times a day) and lightly, keeping the soil moist but not flooded until new grass begins to appear (7-14 days). Gradually reduced watering frequency and increase duration until plants are well established.